Surfing, alone among sports, generates laughter at its very suggestion, and this is because it turns not a skill into an art, but an inexplicable and useless urge into a vital way of life.
MATT WARSHAW, Maverick's: The Story of Big-Wave Surfing
Surfing expresses ... a pure yearning for visceral, physical contact with the natural world.
MATT WARSHAW, Maverick's: The Story of Big-Wave Surfing
